This post started writing at the airport in Bogota, so he began as follows ....
I sit at the airport in Bogota, tired but very happy. Colombia is the most beautiful country which I visited. Paradise on earth. The decision to vacation in Colombia, made my week by the departure. The main reason is the need to re-enter this into the U.S., has just passed 6 months of my stay in the United States. Ideas on where and how to cross the border I had plenty, ranging from several hours to go to Mexico (the famous border crossing in San Diego / Tijuana) after a trip to Canada Ski and thereby fulfill my dream-of skiing on the slopes of Whistler. In 2010. there will be some competition played at the Winter Olympic Games.
Colombia was such a dormant dream that zakiełkowało when Robert - known at last year's holiday in Sri Lanka, invited me to her. Robert works for the International Red Cross, is an important persona in the Colombian Red Cross mission. According to a guide for travelers Lonely Planet Colombia a few years ago was one of the top most dangerous countries in the world. Drug gangs, paramilitary organizations (Such as the FARC, AUC), occupying part of the country, kidnapping, domestic and foreign tourists, it's all meant that Columbia is still considered by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of the Member for the country at high risk.
Together with me on the expedition went to Jon, an American, whom I met on meetupie travelers. Jon chose at the end of January to Cartagena, the most tourist part of the Colombian Caribbean, and decided to extend the itinerary of Bogota and his wife Cafeterę, the place where I planned to go.
Unlike me, quite unconscious potential hazards, Jon was so well informed about the lurking at us every step of the dangers that sometimes wondered why he chose Columbia?
I have studied only in the plane Lonely Planet (owned by Jon). Of course, I have heard about the abduction and Ingrid Betancourt, Colombia, but my vision radically different from the vision of Jon. Sometimes ignorance is beneficial, perhaps if I had knowledge that he had Jon
(and very typical of Americans, obsessive - compulsive disorder), I'm not sure if zdecydowałabym at Columbia, losing thus very much, because it's a wonderful country. Besides, the place was Robert, who on behalf of the Red Cross talks with the FARC and other paramilitary organizations - an ideal source of reliable information and my guarantee of safety. Just as in hospitals is better to avoid conversations with patients, so called. "Horrorków hospital," so it is good to have a distance to good advice travelers who have never in Colombia were not.
Jon found his family a special password in the event of a kidnapping ring every day (at least initially), send an email with the information where it is etc.. On the wave of 'paranoia' I also sent two e-mails the parents, except for the first time in my life (during the holidays):)
my brief holiday included 8 full days, not enough for this amazing country, but I'm impressed with how much we have to see.
flew to Bogota at 5 am (connecting flight in Houston, a total of 9 h in air). At the airport information desk functions, in which, after entering the address, receives a printout of the price of the taxi. Fantastic solution for the still frightened tourists. Following the recommendations of the guide have blocked all the doors of the taxi including the driver's door. In Colombia and other Latin American countries there is called. drive a millionaire. For taxi rides up, mostly at traffic lights, and armed with uninvited guests, and ordering course trace ATMs. Sponsor of the trip is of course right passenger. At the end of the stay is not enough that they do not blokowaliśmy doors were often open all the windows:) In Colombia, it is very logical system of street signs - the division of Carreras and perpendicular to them, Calles, except that they are Avenidas, which sometimes overlap with Calle, sometimes the Carrera. And that address of the apartment Roberta Carrera 4, No. 1970-1968, indicates that the house is the Carrera 4, nearest Cross Street to Calle 70 and the house is situated 68 meters from the block. It's that simple? Robert welcomed us with a delicious breakfast .... And Italian coffee. Colombia is the world's second largest coffee producer, but the art of smoking and coffee have not mastered. Pervasive Tinto tastes like coffee in the sub-przydworcowym bar:)
first day we spent talking, visiting the Bogota, in providing (Jon) by Roberta, Colombia is a safe country:) Bogota has 7 million inhabitants. The town is situated at an altitude of 2650 meters above sea level, after a night on the plane breath we broke off a little bit, we walked around this charming Candelaria, then the hill Monserrate. A large part of Bogota neighborhoods are poor and very poor, some thing a la favelas in Rio de Janeiro. Red Cross officials - the mission has a total of more than 50 foreigners, which is pretty good, they have only been two weeks driving ban lifted Transmilenio public buses (provided that they do not choose a dangerous regions, which include the districts situated to the south. Bogota .) On the way back we decided on a collective madness, and drove a bus Transmilenio. Robert for the first time in my life:) To be precise Transmilenio is no space bus. Certainly no dedicated lanes, bus stops resemble appearance of small terminals, and the buses are modern, but the main strength of these buses are safe. On the night life in the Zona Rosa had not enough strength already:)
The next day we went to a village near Bogota - Zipaquira, to explore the town and the main attraction - the underground salt cathedral. Our guide tried to speak very slowly and clearly in English, but it ended up on the translation by Roberta. Knowledge of English is in Colombia and other South American countries need. I do not know English, but fortunately my friends Italian is very useful to us. Jon advertised as speaking bad English, travels frequently to Central America, learning English for 2 years, it sounded promising. The money came out that, unfortunately, Jon's English is not his strongest point, not to say the Achilles' heel. On the plus side he must include the steadfastness with which it is trying to converse. Nice was one of us a couple, not knowing the language I understand more, so I was translating, and our ears, Jon was our spokesperson. Sometimes successfully, sometimes turned out Language that his efforts brought a completely different result.
When a few good years ago, traveled to Turkey for a month, a magical spell that causes a smile on his face, and opening many doors, was a Roman Kosecki, Galatasaray. In Colombia, soccer is power but no Pole played / did not play. Robert, even though he is Italian and loves football, not familiar with the local football stars. Pope John Paul II has remained as a reference point, but I heard some Colombians Juan Pablo II, said: Roma? The undisputed authority over the divisions is Simon Bolivar, the hero of the liberation of South America from the dominion of the Spaniards, I think everyone's main square in this country is called the Plaza de Bolivar. Indeed, Simon is a spell check:)
We managed to find cheap flights to Pereira, one of the three capitals of the so-called. Zona Cafetera, the land of coffee. 30 minutes by plane instead of 8 hours by bus. The bus is the primary means of transportation in Colombia. There are different types, from air-conditioned express-killing all the clunkers off the road a willing passenger. Pereira is a beautiful city, and besides, none of the three cities (Armenia, Pereira, Manizales) do not admire, were all badly damaged in a number of earthquakes.
According to our guide Milton Pereira is frequently visited by foreign tourists, but it seems to us that a slightly different scale of measure numbers of tourists. Our presence was definitely an event is very low compared to wyróżnialiśmy Colombians with a dark complexion. On the streets of crowds, all trading in all, some stores, shops and stalls, a large proportion of sidewalks. Poring through the crowd with their luggage is a challenge. I packed up borrowed from a friend of Jon's bag on wheels, which was also very uncomfortable backpack. And although by Jon almost had committed a crime, the baggage behind you, who took exception dirt roads. It was more dangerous, sometimes necessary due to obstructed the sidewalk, walking down the street because of the risk deduction. Colombians and the rules of the road may be familiar, but rarely follow, often confuse the road obstacle course. In addition, the city is monitored on the streets he sees a lot of police and army.
hotel recommended by Lonely Plant disbanded, we decided go to the Chamber of Tourism. It turned out that the Board, in turn, changed the seat since the publication of our guide, we got a new address and with the cooperation of the natives in charge of us, more or less in the same direction, we arrived at the address indicated. Jon, of course, helps us to suspect any person of wicked intentions:)
We were not quite sure whether we're in the right place, because there was no number plate with a building or signboard.
When we were filming at the place we went to the Aura, in principle, should write that the heavens zesłały us an angel in the form of the Aura. It turned out that we shared blocks away from a prohibited area for tourists, especially the so-laden as we are. Aura house was a tourist, really well hidden from the world, and was our translator. In general, the meeting ended with an air of happy ending for both sides, so well acquitted itself as a translator and assistant, and so few people know English in Pereira that at the end of the conversation was offered a job as a translator:)
People in Colombia are extremely friendly, not impudent, not offended when you do not choose their restaurant, a bus line. What's more, we often happened that a friend recommended us, pointing the way to another bus, were led to the neighbor, etc.., A great feature.
My blond hair, blue eyes and my height, it's all aroused interest, but never once met with the insistence on the part of Colombian men. Very politely asked after several minutes of conversation, often through an interpreter, if I have a boyfriend:) Robert, pretty long-haired blonde, told me that during the talks with the leaders of paramilitary groups is almost always asked if there is no boyfriend. It happened to her also, if the answer yes, that undaunted "soldier", he asked, "but if you have a Colombian boyfriend?":) Always ready to service:)
In the information point no one spoke English, but fortunately we all take charge of an angel, we got the address of the trusted hotel ( special price:)). Aura verified our plans in terms of their success and feasibility, we found that our plan trips to the park was heavily Ucumari underdeveloped, lacked an essential element - a guide. In total, should know that the jungle is selected from the guide, but used to being labeled routes and trails quite thought about it. Our guide, dwudziestoparolatek Milton came within 5 minutes. Very nice. We said goodbye to all employees, While leaving we were given gifts - 3 folders and business card advertising director telling you that we can always call when we need.
2-3 star hotel. There was a chapel, is reportedly standard, and a lot of bars, a standard:)
the evening we went for a rum and Coke. The hotel was located close to the Plaza de Bolivar, which is at the center, crowded during the day the streets after nightfall were empty. At the crossroads each street has become a soldier. Safe, but this indicates how it is still dangerous. Soldiers after hours. 21 disappear from the streets. According to Milton to move the safe part of town is fairly safe to midnight, then the city becomes a jungle ....
The bar was treated us with honor, the whole operation was longer for us, we got a bucket of peanuts almost free, amazing is the attitude to tourists.
next two days is a trip to the park Ucumari and accommodation in La Pastora. A very nearly did not come to the dressing effect due to fighting with backpacks Jon, is the art of packing its many secrets:) Jon has always wanted to go earlier by plane, bus, jeep, etc.. than is reasonably justified, and then barely converges, or is going nowhere at the last possible hour. Fortunately, this time it worked:)
To get to the first shelter we had to get to El Cedral (2h) called. Chiva, a traditional means of transport, colorful, with no windows and doors of the bus. A big impression. The bus had to leave the chair. 9, paragraph 9 of the driver fired the engine. When this type of bus in South America, known for its lack of punctuality were expecting at least 15 minutes delayed. Do not know if we had such incredible luck, or Colombians crossed a metamorphosis, but the Swiss and Germans can learn from Colombians. Whether the plane, taxi, bus bus is, Chiva, jeep, horse, man has always started the journey on time. Coming to the bus stop at 14.01 meant watching the back of the departing bus (departure 14.00):)
Colombia is beautiful, lots of colors, the dominant color is green, extremely rich flora and fauna. When Milton suggested a trip to the roof of Chiva agreed right away. Wytrzęsło us for all time, podrapały our branches, but it was one of those amazing and unforgettable adventures worth any price:)
Throughout the stay we were accompanied by rain, it rained every day, sometimes briefly, sometimes for several hours, the higher were the more. Climbing took us about 3 hours, views, feelings, smells, colors, amazing, words can not give up ... .. In La Pastora lives a five-family, but us was Hector, a very nice biologist studying frogs.
The shelter has no electricity and hot water and no restaurant, dinner and breakfast we brought back:) We were introduced, to drink tinto, we got a solid rubber poncho and went into the jungle to watch the waterfalls. Jose, master of the house, paving the way for us with a machete. Night we spent at the fireplace and rum. Ah, what was the conversation:) It's a miracle that manipulating a modest vocabulary and grammar knowledge of zero (Jon) with me as a translator from English to Italian, then English, we managed to talk to. Cdn.
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